It was our longest train ride yet, from Butterworth (outside of
Georgetown) to Bangkok, almost 24 hours. We had secured sleeper bunks and the
train was modern so the journey was quite smooth. Lots of the usual—reading and
napping.
Bangkok was beginning to feel like home at that point. How many times had we
circled back here? Khao San Road was familiar to us, so much so that we really
had really search over the place to find anything new and exciting. I remember
that there had been a lot of rain and rats were out in the streets, sometimes
washing up dead in the gutters.
Bangkok served as a brief layover on our way to Cambodia. We obtained Cambodian
visas, which involved a lot more paperwork and hassle than the other countries
we had visited in Southeast Asia. At this point in our travels, the whole point
A to point B was becoming predictable. Shuffle the tourists between countries
or cities without the tourists having much interaction with locals. We were
catered to, so much so that the adventure was taken out of the process. I had
pictured hitchhiking our way through places, riding with chickens and cows and
whatnot, but a lot of the time were were merely herded together with other
backpackers and dropped off at tourist spots in the cities. It started to feel
repetitious.
Our entry to Cambodia was not without its headaches. First we were packed with
a bunch of backpackers into a small van (and I'd like to note that this was
totally not my preferred mode of travel, squished into a middle seat with
sweaty young backpackers; my claustrophobic ways are strong in such
situations). It seemed to take us forever to get out of Bangkok, the sprawling
city that it is. The van driver was the worst I think I've ever encountered,
heavily tapping the gas pedal in intervals, ensuring enough bursts of momentum
to cause me nausea. Then there was the matter of being scammed, as Chris had
come this way before, visiting Cambodia not once, but twice before, and he was
on to them all, sniffing out scams left and right. My attitude was like "Fuck
it, if they ask for a stamp, just pay for it." I was tired of sussing out
if we were getting screwed over or not. Til this day, I'm not sure if we were
scammed or not at the Cambodian border, but if we were, then so was everyone
else we were with.
The strip of land between the Thai border and the Cambodian border was like
some sort of no-man's-land. Lots of cement and barbed wire. It was a bit
intimidating walking that stretch. The guards were a touch scary as they looked
over our passports. We were entering a land haunted by the memory of the Khmer
Rouge regime, one of the deadliest history has ever seen. The atrocities that
were committed in this country defy comprehension. Perhaps that was on my mind
as I nervously avoided eye contact.
The whole border process took several hours. Why it was such a hassle I have no
idea. So many backpackers pass through this point, you'd think they'd make it
more convenient. There was a lot of waiting around. Fortunately we were able to
catch a bus without much fuss. This had been one of our main worries, as we had
been told by guides that we should take a taxi to Siem Reap (an expensive
option) or risk waiting for a bus to fill up, which could take hours. Perhaps
this was another way to scam us. In truth, the buses filled up fast and before
we knew it we were on our way.
Chris had inundated my thoughts with tales of dirt roads and abject poverty. I
expected the worst as far as our commute to Siam Reap. However, a lot had
changed since Chris' last trip to Cambodia. The dirt road was now paved and the
bus was modern with movies and music videos flashing from a screen (though that
in itself was not a good thing). It was obvious that tourism had made a huge
impact on the economy. This could be both good and bad. Good in that we would
enjoy a lot more conveniences in our travel, and bad in that a lot of the
adventure was taken out of the experience.
The bus dropped us off outside of Siem Reap. From there we took a tuk tuk into
the center. The sun had gone down and we were shooting along in the dark, which
was quite a thrill with all the lights flashing by. Billboards abounded, along
with large, upscale hotels on the outskirts of town. Somewhere in the dark we
knew that Angkor Wat was looming. Just knowing it was nearby was giving me a
tingly feeling. I felt like a kid on their way to Disney World—but not just
yet.
Our guesthouse was more than satisfactory. Located a block away from the night
market, which was part of triangle of streets which formed the downtown, it was
ideal. A party atmosphere hung in the humid night air. Our guesthouse even had
a nice outdoor sitting area where we could sit and enjoy drinks. But Chris and
I were too tired from our long journey to venture out and instead crashed in
our room.
The Guilt Factor
In the light of day, the streets of Siem Reap were crawling with tourists and
beggars. Instead of being in school, kids had taken to the streets to beg.
Chris had such a soft place in his heart of these children and engaged them in
conversation. I was not as charmed by them. When refusing to give one little
boy money he glared at me and called me a bitch. And there was a barefoot girl
hanging out on a corner holding a baby in her arms. "No money," she
told us. "Food for baby." And we believed her. How can one turn away
from that? She said that the baby needed milk. Seemed easy enough, we would buy
milk. She took us into the nearest shop to an aisle with baby formula. She asked
us to buy this huge thing of baby food which cost a ridiculous amount of money.
"That's not what we had in mind," we told her. "Then give me
money," she said, holding her hand out. We realized that that had been her
intention the whole time. How many tourists had she brought into this shop, and
then cornered them, insisted that they give her money? The ladies at the shop
counter looked unfazed as we left. They probably saw this a dozen times a day.
Still, the children were adorable. It wasn't their fault that their country had
been through so much. Chris and I visited a children's hospital. Though we
didn't get to meet any of the children, we were shown a video showcasing the
plight of Cambodian children. Needless to say, it really pulled at our
heartstrings. Despite the influx of tourism, Cambodia truly is a third world
country where children die everyday from preventable diseases. This was an
opportunity to give to the hospital with a clear conscience, away from the
scams of beggars on the street.
After the children's hospital, we hired a tuk tuk to take us to the War
Memorial a few miles outside of town. The cost of admittance to the museum was
high at $5 per person. This is a lot of money in Cambodia, but we felt this
would be an educational experience. Indeed, it was. There were no other
tourists around, so we got our own guide. I don't remember his name, but he was
missing an arm, so our heartstrings were plucked immediately. The museum was
outdoors and featured things like tanks and helicopters and landmines. Not real
landmines, but an example of what they look like. It's to be noted that
Cambodia still has 8 to 10 million landmines from three decades of war. This
was a sobering thought and a reminder not to be running through any fields.
Our guide had a very soft voice, but was engaging as he drew us into his
stories. We weren't entirely clear about his story, how he had lost his arm. He
told us that his parents, who had been villagers, had been killed by the Khmer
Rouge, and he was made into a child soldier. Fighting under another regime (not
the Kkmer Rouge) his arm had been damaged and amputated with a wire. It was
hard to understand whose side he had been on, there were so many sides and the
good and the bad were not always clear.
The tales of torture and death were a lot to take in. Chris and I walked around
and touched things like Khmer Rouge scarves and helmets, wondering who had worn
these and what their fates had been. Photos of victims were hung, and we tried
to do them justice by absorbing them into our minds. This museum had the
appropriate impact on us. Though Angkor Wat was nearby, there is so much more
to Siem Reap than the temples. The horror of the Khmer Rouge and warfare
infiltrated the whole country; it was only right for us to contemplate this a
bit before we moved on to Disney World.
We didn’t expect to be asked for a donation at the end of the tour. We figured
the entry cost would cover our guide's presentation. But here he was asking for
more. Chris pulled some bhat out of his pocket and offered it, but our guide
just shook his head in an offended way and said, "Too little." My
heartstrings were not plucked at this; in fact I was quite agitated. "Just
put it in the donation box" I told Chris, and we left. That had left a
sour taste in my mouth. We were tired of being seen as walking dollar signs.
Why could none of these encounters seem genuine?
Back in town, Chris and I went to find some grub. The restaurants were all
outdoors, We sat on the street and ate noodles, watching the girl who had
scammed us earlier use her spiel on passing tourists. Quite the little scam
artist. You couldn't really blame her though. Everyone's just trying to survive
in the third world.
The Land of Temples
We had bedbugs in our room. I knew this because the telltale bites were forming
on my arms. We went to bed early in order to rise early to catch the sunrise at
Angkor Wat. Sleep was an elusive thing as I felt bugs crawling across my face. Not
ideal.
I had been waiting so long to see Angkor Wat. Back when I was a teenager, I saw
these crumbling ruins surrounded by jungle in a book. At that time, Cambodia
had seemed as elusive as the moon to me. I couldn't imagine that anyone could
actually go there. Angkor Wat resided in my mind like a vision of Eden. I never
actually thought I'd get to see it one day. But here I was, right on the
threshold of something so massive and magical—I should have been beside myself
with excitement. Indeed, I tried to muster it up as we waited for our tuk tuk
driver at 4 o'clock in the morning. He was late and I slumped over with
tiredness. When the tuk tuk driver arrived, he didn't seem like he was in good
shape himself.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat (the main temple) is quite the thing. Everyone wants to
capture that perfect moment. The crowds had gathered in the dark by the
entrance, looking out over the giant stretch of grass towards the silhouettes
of towers which were steadily emerging in the gray light. A hum of energy pervaded.
Chris and I found a seat and watched as tourists around us set up their
cameras. This was supposed to be the main spectacle, on par with watching The
Rolling Stones take the stage at a concert. We waited and we waited, and then
we waited some more. Since the sky was overcast, it was impossible to pinpoint
the time of sunrise. In a slow progression, the tourists took their cameras
down and dispersed. Sunrise at Angkor Wat had been anti-climatic.
But still, Angkor Wat is Angkor Wat, and it simply cannot disappoint. The
temple, which is situated on a large square of land surrounded by a moat, is
immense. There was no crush of tourists once we entered the temple. Chris and I
lingered at leisure and snapped pictures without photobombing tourists. The
ruins are quite intact, even though they date back to the 12th century. The
artwork is intricate, carved into the walls. Lot of naked chicks with their
boobs out. This makes sense, at it was originally a Hindu temple (and we all
know how those ancient Hindus loved erotic artwork).
Coming back to our tuk tuk, we found our driver sleeping. He really didn't look
well. Still, he seemed apologetic and started cycling to the next temple. It
turns out that Angkor Wat is the main temple in a huge temple complex. There
are so many temples that I cannot make sense of them. I'm looking at a map
right now and I still can't figure out where we went. The roads between temples
were long, passing through fantastically carved gates, and lined with elephants
transporting tourists.
We came to another temple, this one much smaller. This one had the faces. Yes,
the faces! I had seen them before and are a symbol of Bayon, another famous
temple in the Angkor Wat area. Because this temple was small, we had to share
our space with other tourists. These were mostly Asian, and although I risk
sounding racist here, I will admit that Asians (and by this I mean, Chinese,
Japanese and Korean) are my least favorite kinds of tourists. I say this
because they have to take a million pictures of everything. And you can tell
that the pictures aren't even going to be good. Why a husband would want to
take a picture of his dower-faced wife in front of a garbage can, I will never
know. So yes, they are annoying like that, taking up space. It's hard to get a
good shot without an Asian in them if they are hanging about. But anyway,
despite the annoyance of tourists, it was fun to ramble among the faces. The
passageways through the temple were rambling enough to make you feel like you
were on some kind of adventure, even if that meant waiting for a line of tourists
to make their way down a ladder. Yeesh!
We visited one more temple after that, and this was the one with the giant tree
roots. Ta Prohm. This was perhaps my favorite temple, as the trees had taken on
a life of their own, determined to reclaim the jungle. I'm not entirely sure
why the trees were so aggressive at this particular temple, but they provided
great photographic opportunities (complete with Asian tourists—damn). Roots
like elephant trunks draped over walls and roofs. I wonder how much longer it
will be for the trees to completely take over, and for the temple to disappear
into the mists of time.
Our tuk tuk driver seemed eager to get going. The whole thing felt a bit rushed
for us. But we were tired so we didn't want to drag the whole experience out
too much. It must have been 10:00 in the morning and we were on our way back to
the hotel. On one of the back streets of Siem Reap, our driver stopped to puke.
We felt bad for him. It looked like he was suffering from a massive hangover.
He seemed like a nice guy though so we tipped him well. We then retreated to
our room where we slept through the heat of the day (after changing rooms—no
more bedbugs).
Living Large in Siem Reap
One of Chris' friends got in touch with him. John and his pregnant wife were in
Siem Reap the same time we were. We agreed to meet up for a drink. Refreshed
from sleep, Chris and I were ready to hit the town. Even if there wasn't much
to the town, there was enough to keep us entertained for a night out. We first
hit the Red Piano, a bar owned by Angelina Jolie. The drinks there were a bit
more expensive than the other bars, but at least it was swanky, and lord knows
it had been a long time since we had done swanky.
From there we continued to another bar where cocktails and beers were consumed.
It's to be noted that I only drank beer out of necessity, as beer isn't really
my thing. The cocktails in Siem Reap were fab, which meant that I was getting
pretty tipsy. I felt bad that John's wife couldn't drink. She was heavily
pregnant and sipped water all night. John and Chris were pounding Angkor beers
and catching up. This was the second workmate of his to meet up with us on our
travels. My goodness do those Brits like to travel.
Somehow we had found our way to a Ladyboy club. I'm not sure if this was
intended, or if the drinks had swayed us. John wasn't feeling well. He and his
wife hadn't been traveling as long, so they were still sensitive to Asian
cuisine. They didn't stay long at the Ladyboy show, but Chris and I saw it
through to the end. And may I say—I loved it. The owner was Australian and gay.
That could have read as perverted, as these Ladyboys were on the young side,
but he seemed like an alright guy. The Ladyboys really seemed to enjoy what
they were doing. And they looked fabulous. Cambodians are attractive in
general, with striking facial features. Their cheekbones are to die for. Most
of the numbers were dance routines, but some of them were comedy. The comedy
was nothing short of genius, with Ladyboys in bad wigs and intentionally bad
makeup. One number was a Ladyboy with a short dress and a pantyhose with a line
down the front, as if she were showing her minge (yes, I adopted that word from
Chris). Lipsyncing the song from Pocahontas "Colors of the Wind" and
tugging down at her dress—she reminded me of a drunk Tina Turner, and I don't
know I say that, as I've never seen Tina Turner perform in such a manner.
Anyway, the comedy was genius. We were in stitches. I think it was the hardest
we laughed on the trip. It was a great way to end our time in Siem Reap.
The Man with a Stick
Cambodia is a small country, still it seems to take forever to get between
places. Our next destination, Battambang, took an eternity to reach, but
perhaps that was because of the videos being played on the bus. We were riding
mostly with locals. Apparently the locals adore music videos while they travel.
The music was blaring. If it had been anything remotely good I would have
considered it entertainment, however it came across more like torture. Played
continuously, it was on par with Chinese water torture. I can still hear it in
my darkest of nightmares. The videos weren't much better with terrible soap
operas being played out in cringe-worthy ways. That ride couldn't have ended
soon enough.
Battambang is a large city which is less touristy than Siem Reap. There were no
beggars in the streets. Instead, it seemed like the whole place was down to
earth and didn’t cater too much to tourists. Chris and I loved it, as it was
laid-back and we could walk the streets without being hassled. There’s some
good food to be found in Battambang, from the old French bakeries to trendy
cafes such as the Gecko Café, where to my delight, Mexican food was served as
well as something closely resembling a frozen mojito (sans alcohol). Battambang
provided some essential down time. Our hotel room was spacious and had a vague
French colonial feeling to it. It was a great place to relax.
For a day we hired a tuk tuk to take us around the area. One of our
destinations was the bamboo train. Our travel guide insisted that it was
something not be miss. We had no idea what to expect. All kinds of images can
come to mind when hearing "Bamboo Train." We were taken down a very
dusty, bumpy road to the middle of nowhere. We were then taken to a lone
railroad track. Our "train" was something like a wooden crate laid on
top of wheel, like something children constructed. We were the only tourists. A
woman and and a child hopped aboard, and then a guy started the engine and we
were off. It was quite a thrill, moving so close to the ground, feeling the
vibration underneath. We got up to a good speed, and at that point it felt more
like a roller coaster, flying over bridges and such. Chris and I loved it.
At some point in our journey, we noticed another train coming at us. As there
was only a single track, that meant we were at an impass. But no. We were
instructed to step off the train. Then our conductor began to disassemble our
train car. It was a swift process, taking no more than a few minutes. Once the
other train passed, the car was put together and we continued on our way.
The end of the line was a village. Children surrounded us, but they weren't
begging. Instead they made us jewelry out of blades of grass. They didn't ask
money for them which was very refreshing. We bought a drink and sat there as a
guy made friends with us. He spoke good English, telling us his story of the
Khmer Rouge. He was bare-chested, sporting a long scar on his chest. Chris was
intensely interested in his story, asking him all kinds of questions. So
impressed Chris was that he asked to pose with him for a picture. I would like
to say that this man was not telling his story to pull at our heartstrings. It
seemed he genuinely wanted to share his experience.
As we drank our bottles of Fanta, the children set off makeshift petrol bombs.
None of the adults seemed concerned that the children were playing with such
dangerous toys.
There was no pressure to buy anything else, and soon we were back on the train
heading back in the direction we had come from. There were waves all around as
we pulled away. What a fantastic experience.
From the Bamboo Train we were taken to a temple in the hills, Phnom Sempeau.
The day was extremely hot. We had the option to take a motorbike up to the top,
but we decided to slog it. Bad idea. The climb nearly did us in. Still the
views were good from the top, though the temple itself wasn't that big of a
deal. The thing that stuck with me the most were the caves with the shrines.
Though these were religious, they also carried the horror of the Khmer Rouge.
One of the caves was called the Killing Cave, because so many bodies had been
dumped there. There were paintings outside of the cave which depicted some of
the horrors which had taken place there. Again, such a beautiful setting. It was
hard to believe this had been such a different place just decades before.
Our tuk tuk driver earned his wages that day. He took us all around the
countryside. On the way back to Battambang we came to a roundabout with a giant
statue of a dark chap holding a big stick. Our driver parked the tuk tuk long
enough to tell us the story about the town. The story goes that a long time ago,
there was a farmhand who possessed a magic stick. With the help of his stick,
he became king. Another king looked to take his place, but the guy with the
stick didn't want him to get it so, according to legend, he threw it in the
river. And it's never been found. The name Battambang literally means
"Lost Stick."
Indeed, there was a little bit of magic to be found in Battambang. There was
nothing outwardly showy about it, the way Siem Reap was, with all the wealth
from tourism. Rather it was close to the real Cambodia, both rural and city.
The people were genuine and some of the nicest we had encountered on our
travels. Because of places like this, along with Chris, I had fallen in love
with Cambodia.
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